In previous posts, we discussed picking the number of blades and how long those blades should be. Now it is time to cut and sew!
Pick your favorite fabrics. You could use a gradient of colors, scrappy, alternating or solid fabrics. I decided to use layer cakes that I had to provide a gradient effect.
Cut strips of fabric to match the length of the blade plus a 1/4-inch for a seam allowance. If you are going to add a traditional circle or a less traditional shape (square, triangle, flower, etc.) to your plate center, the diameter of this shape minus 1/4-inch seam allowance can be subtracted from the blade length to provide your new strip width. My example here will make 10-degree blades that are 9 3/4-inches long with a 1 1/2-inch circle in the center. The strip width needed is (9 3/4 + 1/4) – (1 1/2 + 1/4)) = (10 – 1 3/4) = 8 1/4-inches. My layer cakes were trimmed to 8 1/4-inches. Then, I placed the wedge ruler between the 10-inch mark and the 1 3/4-inch mark and cut my wedges. Note, the wedges were cut from both directions to make the most use of the fabric. I was able to cut 6 wedges from each pre-cut.
To make the blades, fold the wedge in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew a 1/4-inch seam along the top. Clip the inside corner (fold side). This prevents bulk in the point of the blade. Turn the piece right side out and iron the point using the Prairie Pointers Pressing Tool. Voila! You have made your first blade.
Now, sew the blades together, starting at the tip end, with a 1/4-inch seam. You start at the tip end as the alignment is most important there.
In our next post, we will cover how to assemble the block!